New to the Forum...planning my first visit

[stewarm]

Greetings to the Members.

First, my thanks to the organizers of this forum. This is a great resource and has already been of significant assistance in scoping my library acquisitions. (And in draining my book fund.)

Having browsed the threads for a few weeks, it's time for a short introduction. I'm a retired Army officer with a degree in US history. I've been on numerous staff rides to Civil War battlefields, walked European battlefields, and looked across the DMZ at some of the more notable  Korean War "hills."

That brief amount said, my knowledge of the Little Bighorn battle and the associated campaigns is rather thin. I've been to both Thomas and George Custer's gravesites. I've been inside the Custer House on Fort Leavenworth. Some would say I started at the wrong end of the story.

This summer four of my friends and I will be traveling to the area to spend a few days. More about that later as plans firm up. If you'll permit, I'll be seeking guidance later from those who have been on the ground since I can't make a reconnaissance of the stops before the trip.

More later. Hope all are staying warm and have power.

With kind regards,

Mike

[Diane Merkel]

Mike,

You will thoroughly enjoy your first visit. There is nothing like seeing the battlefield in person.

If you are planning to go near the anniversary date, you should check the Custer Battlefield Historical & Museum Association's website. They normally have a great symposium every year as well as a guided in-depth tour of one area of the battlefield.

Best wishes,
Diane

[fred]

Mike,

I have been there several times, and while certainly no expert, my advice would be to start at the opposite end from the entrance and work your way back to the visitors center. If you can walk it, that would be even better: it will give you a much better idea of the battlefield's distances and terrain. Regardless, starting at the Reno-Benteen end rather than the Last Stand Hill area is the best. While at Sen-Benteen, make sure you walk the entire walkway area: note the slit trenches, the markers, the "hospital" swale, the fields of fire, the distance of Sharpshooters' Ridge, the bluff areas, and the valley views, and whatever else your eyes can take in. Whether you walk or ride, stop frequently. When you leave Reno-Benteen, just as you exit the NPS gate, you will go over a cow grate in the road. Pull over. On your left-- the bluff side-- you will see a small rise at the edge of the bluffs. On a topo map, that rise is noted as "3,411." That is the precise place where George Custer, W. W. Cooke, and one other (probably brother Tom) overlooked the valley at the beginning of the Reno fighting. Most people claim that stop was on Weir Peaks, but they are wrong; 3,411 is the precise spot.

If you then turn around and face toward Sharpshooters' Ridge, you will notice the yawning opening into Cedar Coulee. That is the route Custer took as he headed north. If you venture, on foot, toward that area, you will notice the ground slopes down, then rises a tad bit to a slight ridge. As you approach the top of that ridge, the entire opening into Cedar comes into view. That is the ridge LT Godfrey set up his skirmish line later in the afternoon as the Reno-Benteen command was hotfooting it back to Reno Hill, chased by the warriors who had just wiped out Custer. You will not find that exact spot written down anywhere except in one book, and no one will ever point it out to you except as a general area. If you are a retired Army officer, you will see its significance immediately. When you crest that ridge it will hit you like a revelation.

Anyway, that is a brief synopsis of the first few yards of what is ahead of you. If you want more suggestions, just post it here. There is a lot in that general vicinity: Fort Phil Kearny, the Sheridan Inn, the Occidental Hotel... all active during that period or before, and all worth the visit. Staying in both hotels is a hoot, as well.

Best wishes,
Fred.

[tubman13]

Mike,

I'm late to the party, welcome to the board. You didn't approach the wrong way, hell, I visited Custer's grave in the1960's, ACW battlefields, two of his mistakes (Trevillian Station & Washita), the LBH a number of times, and last Summer, Ft. Lincoln.

Fred is correct, visit Reno Hill first, it will give a great perspective of the terrain GAC traversed to find his final resting point.

Regards,
Tom

[Mike Powell]

Mike,

I first visited in 1952, even to a tyke of seven the place made a sobering impression. I've been back a few times since and if I may I'll share some thoughts.

The fellows above know what they're talking about re the battlefield proper and best ways to tour it.

All I'll add:

In that general area don't miss Fort Phil Kearney and the site of the Fetterman fight. Not as large an affair or as argued over as LBH but Fetterman is a fine battlefield walk. It's never crowded and the terrain tells the story. Go all the way north to the Wheatley Fisher rocks and then look back south along the finger, it's chilling. The museum beside the fort is small and worth while. This is all easily found on the Interstate south of Sheridan. Oh, the Wagon Box Fight is just up the road along Piney Greek from the fort also. You could do it all in a hurried half day.

If you've got two days or more for LBH consider hiring a local guide that can take you on Custer's route from Busby to the LBH on the early morning of the fight. I've done it twice with different guides; make sure you're with someone who can actually get you up to the Crow Nest. Land access permissions are tight and not all guides are equal in this regard. About a decade ago the cost for a party of two was around $400 and you supply the vehicle. A Chevy Suburban was plenty adequate, an automobile would have presented a challenge. Takes a good half day and some but gives the sense of the difficulty of knowing exactly what lay ahead until they were almost upon it.

Finally, at LBH while at Keough's marker on the 125th anniversary a docent suggested I step off trail down into the so-called "Horse Holders Ravine" for a look see. It was a crowded day, lot of traffic and noise up on the ridge above but down in that ravine there wasn't a soul in sight and the noise was down to almost nothing. It was a singular experience.

[stewarm]

Mar 10, 2022 13:36:58 GMT -6 Mike Powell said:

If you've got two days or more for LBH consider hiring a local guide that can take you on Custer's route from Busby to the LBH on the early morning of the fight. I've done it twice with different guides; make sure you're with someone who can actually get you up to the Crow Nest. Land access permissions are tight and not all guides are equal in this regard. About a decade ago the cost for a party of two was around $400 and you supply the vehicle. A Chevy Suburban was plenty adequate, an automobile would have presented a challenge. Takes a good half day and some but gives the sense of the difficulty of knowing exactly what lay ahead until they were almost upon it.

Can anyone recommend local guides for me to contact? Our party is very interested in visiting the Crow's Nest (and Deer Medicine Rocks). There are five in our group. I am keenly aware of the issues surrounding private and sacred land access.

Thank you.

Mike

[tubman13]

I know a couple of Cheyenne, but not sure how to contact. If Steve Andrews sees this he might be able to help. Also you might contact the Crow nation as the can probably assist, the Crow family that host the reenactment do tours of parts of the battlefield, their name is Real Bird.

I hope this helps. One last thing,you could contact the National Park folks and ask them to put you in touch with Steve Adelson or Michael Donohue.

Regards,
Tom

[tubman13]

I have been informed that that the Park Service there has a list.

Regards,
Tom

[Mike Powell]

This is pretty dated information (summer of 2008) but of the two guides I've used the one I would most recommend is Dennis Fox.


Dennis,the brother of Richard Fox, coauthor of "Archaeological Insights Into The Custer Battle", is knowledgeable, personable and, at least in 2008, had access to the Crow Nest. I don't think you're likely to do much better if you can locate him.

If interested PM me and I have some possible contact info though it is dated.


Good luck,
Mike

[herosrest]

^Ducemus